Lovethiopia

We rushed through the Dubai airport with our soup from the restaurant in hand, and our backpacks packed full of stuff we thought we needed bouncing on our backs. We were anxious and eager for the trek that was ahead. We had no real plan, but that made the whole experience that much more exhilarating. 

After a short layover in Bahrain, we were finally on our way to Africa! This was my first time to visit the mother continent, but not Elizabeth's, as she is a travel and hiking pro. We tried our best to sleep on the plane as we flew through the night, but it was near impossible! As much as I love to visit other countries, the plane rides are never comfortable in the economy class :-/ A sacrifice I must be willing to make in order to reap the benefits of travel. We reached the capital, Addis Abba, around 3 a.m. and this is when we had foil #1 in our nonexistent plan. We had heard it was best to book the domestic flight upon arrival because it was supposedly much cheaper than doing it on-line, so we banked on the rumor. However, it was just that. A rumor. Apparently, it is only cheaper if you flew Ethiopian airlines internationally! That piece was left out of our information source, as we flew with Gulf Air. Bummer. So, we waited, and waited, and waited on standby for a spot on the plane to Gondar. By mid morning, we finally got seats, costing us a pretty penny. Once in Gondar, we immediately hopped in an old, small, white van with about 15 other people! Squished in the back, we promptly were engaged in conversation with the only other English speaking passenger, a German man there for a race. He was pleasant and gave us lots of good information regarding the area. Upon arrival in our destination town, Debark, we parted ways. Elizabeth and I were bombarded with locals the minute we stepped out of the van. Everywhere we turned was another man asking where we were from and how many days we were going to hike. 

This is when I first met Emanuel. Emanuel saw me while I was still in the van, and he waved incessantly until I emerged. He was carrying a paper box lid and wearing a maroon colored t-shirt and wooden cross necklace. Within the paper box lid was neatly arranged rows of tissue packages and sticks of gum. He kept asking if I wanted tissue. However, because of the broken English, I couldn't understand what he was saying until I looked down and saw what he was selling. Everybody there is selling something and as soon as they know you are not interested in buying whatever it is, they will leave you be and become your best friend. As we walked to the recommended hotel, Emanuel attached himself to me. Asking me about my life, my children, my job. Sentences were simple words. I conveyed as much as I could. I understood that he was 16, and the minute I told him I also had a 16 year old son, he kept saying he was my son's best friend. Then, he would ask if I wanted tissue ;-) 

As we walked, children waved and smiled at us in awe, as if they had never seen white women before. Men stared and offered their mountain guide service, as they figured we would need one. Foil #2 in the nonexistent plan...the hotel we wanted was booked. However, we were led to another hotel just down the street that had a vacancy. It was quaint. It needed work. It had character. It also was full of men with many questions! The guy who apparently was running the hotel looked to be about 18 or so. He spoke understandable English and helped us to our room. We told him our plans to trek the mountains, and he said he would help get everything arranged. Sure enough, within 15 minutes, a friend of his came knocking at our door to tell us his offer. This one had a British accent and spoke English the best of anyone we had met thus far. He told us he taught himself the language for the most part. I was impressed! He gave us a run-down of what he could do for us regarding the trek and his price. We called his bluff and decided to check with the park office first to compare. We booked everything we wanted in the office after about an hour of contemplating how to save the most money, and in the end, we thought we could handle going without some things. We settled on staying at the "lodges" versus camping in tents, as that would mean hiring a mule to carry the equipment, and hiring a mule man to guide the mule (note to self: hire mule and mule man next time). We had to hire a scout, but an English speaking guide was optional, which we ultimately would forego. We also passed up hiring a cook, and decided it would be more cost efficient to bring the necessary food and also pay to eat at the lodges where food was available. The biggest expense ended up being the car drop off and pick up. Cars in Ethiopia are super expensive, therefore the service is as well. In the end, we felt confident in our choices. That evening, we joined the British accent guy for dinner. Now that we weren't buying anything from him, he let go of the salesman pitch and just talked to us as friends and it was quite enjoyable conversation. We ate the local specialty, enjera with lamb and vegetables. It was absolutely delicious! We also saw the German guy again and chat with his group a bit before heading to bed. Our hearts were already full of warm welcomes!

Trekking Day 1

Around 4 a.m., we awoke to a loud speaker with something similar to a call to prayer being played over and over. We tried to sleep, but it wouldn't stop! For hours! Before we could leave for the hike, we had to figure out our domestic plane ride out of Gondar and back to Addis Abba. The internet service was really spotty, so we were unable to book on-line. The kid running the hotel, took us to his room to try his computer. All attempts failed, so he said he would call a friend of his that is a travel agent. Elizabeth spoke to the guy, and we were quoted a price. This is when we had to open our hearts more and really trust these strangers we were surrounded by. We handed over more than $600 USD to the kid to pay his friend while we were gone hiking. We were nervous, but knew none of these people would intentionally do anything immoral to us. We had to believe in humanity. 

Eventually, it was time to get going. The street was humming with people bright and early. Emanual ran up and hugged me! I asked him to take a photo with me and he was thrilled. He started calling me "mom" at this point <3 

We said our goodbyes and hopped in the SUV to head to the mountains. This is when we first met our scout, Eshte. He had a kind face. He looked to be in his mid 50's. He grew up in the mountains and did not speak English at all. He was to be our protection. He carried his rifle like a badge of honor and by the end of our time together, he carried a piece of our hearts.

As we drove through Debark, my heart swelled with sympathy for the people. Kids and women along side the men doing physical labor. No technology in sight. Girls chopping wood. Children laying rocks to make a road. Young boys herding the animals. Even though their lives seemed full of despair, they would still take a moment to wave or smile as we passed by. They know no other life. They are not aware of their 3rd world challenges, nor how it could be better, relatively speaking.

Then the car dropped us at the base of the mountain, just a little ways past the park entrance. The car was going to go ahead and drop our stuff we didn't want to carry off at the first lodge. Which later (when we did actually have to carry our packs), we realized we packed WAY TOO MUCH stuff! Note to self: pack lighter next time!

We hiked for about 6 hours. It was so hot at times! The biggest mistake was not bringing a wide-brimmed hat. The backs of our necks sizzled and were untouchable the rest of the trip. Despite the heat, the best part of the day was when we happened upon the first congress of native Gelada baboons! They were amazing! They let us sit with them and snap photos of them. They were completely oblivious to us so it seemed. We never felt in danger and were eager to continue our hike with them. They often times would walk along the path we were taking. They would also commence in fighting each other at various times. That got my heart rate up! Their sounds while communicating were like cats meowing, and the full grown males looked eerily similar to that of a lion. I'm sure there's a genetic connection somewhere along the line of this evolution!

The scenery was breathtaking...green everywhere! Thick thrush, narrow paths along cliffs, and fields of indigenous plants. Overall, this was the easiest hiking day, and we got our first taste of staying in a lodge. It was a single building with multiple beds within. No running water (don't worry, we became experts at baby wipe showers), electricity from only 7 p.m. to 9 p.m., noisy bunk mates, and freezing nighttime temperatures. The people of the mountains, including our guide, simply slept with a single blanket they carried during the day, while here I was in tights, pajama pants, t-shirt, sweatshirt, socks, gloves, PLUS my sleeping bag, and I was still cold! Unexpectedly, we shared this lodge with a nice couple from Spain that were also hiking, as well as all the native guides in the area. One snored and the rest stayed up most the night laughing and chatting in their native language. We were restless to say the least...

Camp #1 - Sankaber

Trekking Day 2

The hardest day of my life!!! This hike was difficult and proved to me that I definitely do have bad knees! I was suspicious of this ailment a few years back, but it had laid dormant until now. The trail was long...we hiked for about 8 or 9 hours this day, but even through the pain, we saw the most incredible sights. We met so many mountain people along the way. The children would weave small baskets and make jewelry to sell to hikers. They would lead mules and herd animals. We would meet many showing us wounds and wanting money for medical care. It was absolutely heartbreaking. The kids all asked for pencils or paper. Sometimes they wanted my shirt or shoes. My heartstrings were definitely being pulled.

 Jinbar Waterfall - 1600 feet

Wanting to die at this point!!!

One last uphill battle...

Our lodge at camp #2, Gich

Enjera with egg for dinner

Sunset watching with the kids

 Trekking Day 3

After another restless night without a shower or toilet, and numerous farting sounds and sighs from the other side of the wall (now that's an in-person story), we awoke sore and begging for a mule to carry our packs. We negotiated a deal with the Spanish couple's mule man to carry our packs for the day. Thank goodness! My mind was strong because of the beauty of the land, my heart was aching for the people along the way, and my body was at a breaking point...practicing by climbing Jebel Hafeet in preparation for this proved to be nothing in comparison.

Today's hike was going to be another 8-9 hours, so we had a mental adjustment and pushed through the pain! The day was beautifully foggy. It kept the temperatures cool, which helped tremendously. 

Our protector, Eshte 

Just came down from that peak - Imet Gogo 

Getting a lil help from my friend

 Camp #3 - Chennek

Time for another baby wipe shower!

Mmmm...spaghetti, it's what's for dinner

Simien Mountain Fox sighting

Don't be fooled. There's no toilet in there! A nice stinky hole will have to do!

Trekking Day 4

It was bittersweet. On one hand, I was sooooo relieved it was our last day because of my sheer exhaustion and dirtiness, but on the other hand, I didn't want it to end because I had pushed my limits. I knew I could tackle this final day, mainly because it was only a 4 hour or so hike ;-P 
I was incredibly proud of myself because I could hang with the experienced Elizabeth! My first trek complete! Happy heart <3

                                              End in sight!

Where's Eshte?! He's a mountain goat!

We did it!!! At the top of Bwhait Peak - 14,534 feet

The air up there...

 is soooo thin...can't breathe...

On the way back to the camp, we saw a perfectly 
positioned Walia Ibex in front of its sign

 and then Klipspringers

 On the road again. Weathered by Mother Nature herself!

We found clean beds, electricity and a shower in Gondar!!!

We spent the the following morning exploring Gondar and the afternoon flying to the capital, Addis Abba. Elizabeth has some Ethiopian friends that she knew while they were living abroad in the U.S., that have since moved back to Addis Abba, and opened a restaurant, Savor, in order to help the economy and employ as many people as possible! It was fantastic meeting them, staying in their home with their adorable children, and seeing their dream come to life! 

The next day, we had breakfast at Savor and then went exploring Addis Abba! We walked an area of town and found an amazing little shop where 100% of the proceeds go right back to the people making the goods. It was lovely and made our hearts smile :-) In the evening, we went to a cultural dinner and show at the Ethiopian Cultural Ambassador. What a fantastic experience!!! We truly enjoyed our last evening in this magnificent country.

Enjera with lamb, my favorite!

  Sad to say goodbye :'(

It was as if we snuck away in the middle of the night so that the land wouldn't know we left. We left an imprint there as it did on our hearts. That week was physically the most challenging of my life and spiritually the most uplifting! My faith in humanity was filled to the brim! I must say this was the most incredible experience of my life thus far. To give up all comforts. To embrace a 3rd world country. To hand over trust to complete strangers on a daily basis. To let go of all plans and fears. This vacation in one word - humbling. I am completely humbled...and this is why we went to Ethiopia...I am growing :-)

"Without Courage Your Life Will Never Change" ~Me